Things to Do in Hvar: Fortica, Stari Grad Plain and Wine

10 min

Looking for the best things to do in Hvar beyond its famous nightlife? Hvar Town has a lively summer nightlife and a reputation to match. But there’s far more to the island than that: one of Europe’s oldest public theatres, a fortress with one of the best views on the coast, a field system laid out by ancient Greeks and listed by UNESCO, vineyards on steep southern slopes and some of the sunniest weather in Croatia.

This guide covers the best things to do in Hvar, from Hvar Town to Stari Grad, Jelsa and the Pakleni Islands. Hvar Town is compact enough to see in a day, but the rest of the island rewards anyone who leaves the harbour.

If You Only Have One Day

A day on Hvar doesn’t need a complicated plan. Choose two or three priorities and leave time to enjoy the waterfront rather than rushing across the island. A good short list:

  • Walk up to Fortica for the view over Hvar Town and the Pakleni Islands.
  • See the Arsenal and its historic theatre, then cross St Stephen’s Square.
  • Take a boat to the Pakleni Islands, or swim at a nearby beach.
  • If you have transport and more time, visit Stari Grad and the Stari Grad Plain.
  • Try Plavac Mali or Bogdanuša at one of the island’s wineries.

Hvar Town: The Theatre, the Arsenal and Fortica

Hvar Town is compact enough to explore on foot. St Stephen’s Square, known locally as the Pjaca, stretches between the cathedral and the harbour and is the natural starting point for a walk through the old centre. Cafés fill the lower part of the square, while stone lanes climb behind it towards the town walls.

Beside the square stands the Arsenal, first built in the early 14th century to maintain and equip the town’s galley. After fire and damage in the 16th century, it was rebuilt in its present form in the early 1600s. The theatre on the upper floor opened in 1612 and is regarded as Europe’s first municipal theatre. Its original interior didn’t survive: the auditorium with boxes dates from 1803, and the neo-Baroque look you see today is later still.

From the centre, a path climbs to Fortica, often called the Spanish Fortress. Work on the fort began after Hvar came under Venetian rule in 1278. A Renaissance fortress similar to today’s was finished by 1551, badly damaged when its gunpowder store exploded in 1579, and repaired over the following decades. The history is impressive, but most people first notice the view: rooftops, harbour and the Pakleni Islands spread out below.

The Stari Grad Plain: An Ancient Landscape Still in Use

When Greek settlers from Paros founded Pharos in the 4th century BC, they divided the fertile land behind today’s Stari Grad into regular plots. What makes it remarkable isn’t just the age of the plan. Its system of parcels, paths and dry-stone walls has been respected for around 24 centuries, and grapes and olives are still grown there. That continuity is why the Stari Grad Plain became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.

The plain is best explored slowly, on foot or by bike. It isn’t an archaeological park built around one monument, but a working landscape where ancient field boundaries sit beside today’s vineyards and olive groves. Stari Grad itself is worth your time too. Founded as Pharos in 384 BC, it’s one of the oldest towns in Croatia and feels much calmer than Hvar Town, especially around its harbour and stone lanes.

Hvar Wine: Plavac Mali, Bogdanuša and Island Cellars

Wine is one of the best reasons to leave Hvar Town. On the island’s sunny southern slopes, Plavac Mali makes full-bodied reds from vineyards that often cling to steep, stony ground. The local white to look for is Bogdanuša, a traditional grape closely tied to Hvar and grown mainly in the centre of the island.

Jelsa, Vrboska, Vrbanj, Svirče and the southern village of Sveta Nedjelja are all good starting points for a tasting. Some wineries have regular tasting rooms, while smaller producers may need booking in advance, so get in touch before crossing the island, especially outside July and August. For current contacts, use the official Hvar winery list or the wine routes published by the Jelsa Tourist Board.

The Pakleni Islands: The Easiest Escape from Town

The wooded chain of the Pakleni Islands lies just opposite Hvar Town. Despite the name, which comes from a local word for the pine resin once used in shipbuilding, there’s nothing hellish about them. Their bays offer swimming, restaurants, beach bars and quieter corners, all a short boat ride from the harbour.

Sveti Klement is the largest island in the group. Palmižana is the name most visitors know, although it’s used loosely for the marina and nearby Vinogradišće Bay. Water taxis run from Hvar Town during the season, but routes and last departures vary, so check the return time before you settle in for lunch or a late swim.

Jelsa and Hvar After Dark

Jelsa is a quieter contrast to Hvar Town, with a sheltered harbour, local wineries and easy access to the villages in the centre of the island. In 2022, the Municipality of Jelsa was named the first International Dark Sky Community in Croatia and Southern Europe. The title recognises its work on responsible outdoor lighting; it doesn’t mean the whole municipality is dark at all times. For stargazing, get away from the harbour lights and pick a clear night.

Beaches and Swimming on Hvar

Dubovica, about eight kilometres east of Hvar Town, is one of the island’s best-known pebble coves. You can reach it by boat, or by car followed by a walk down from the main road. It’s attractive precisely because there’s little development, but that also means little shade and few facilities. In high season, arrive early for a quieter swim.

Zaraće, Milna, Pokonji Dol and the coves of the Pakleni Islands give you plenty of alternatives. Conditions differ: some are easier by boat, some have restaurants, and others are simple rocky or pebble swimming spots. Water shoes and sun protection are useful almost everywhere. For more ideas, see our guide to the best places to swim in Croatia.

How to Get to Hvar

Hvar has no airport with scheduled passenger flights, so most visitors fly into Split and continue by sea. These are the main options:

RouteTypeCrossing timeGood to know
Split – Hvar TownCatamaranAbout 1 hour on direct sailingsPassengers only; arrives right in Hvar Town
Split – Stari GradCar ferry (Jadrolinija)About 2 hoursThen about 20 minutes by road to Hvar Town
Drvenik – SućurajCar ferry (Jadrolinija)About 30 minutesEastern tip of the island; about 90 minutes by road to Hvar Town
Getting to Hvar. Times are approximate, so check current timetables before you travel.

Timetables for the Split–Stari Grad ferry and the Drvenik–Sućuraj ferry change with the season and can be affected by weather. Catamaran routes and journey times also depend on the operator and any stops on the way.

When to Visit Hvar

Hvar’s reputation for sunshine is well earned: the island gets more than 2,700 hours of sunshine a year. July and August bring the liveliest atmosphere, the most boat services and events, and the greatest pressure on accommodation, restaurants and beaches.

Late May, June and September often suit people who want warm weather with fewer crowds, although no month guarantees perfect conditions. Lavender usually colours parts of the island in early summer, but flowering and harvest dates depend on the year. Our Adriatic weather guide has the numbers month by month.

So, How Should You Spend Your Time on Hvar?

If you have a few hours, stay in Hvar Town: the Pjaca, the Arsenal and the walk up to Fortica. If you want to swim, take a water taxi to the Pakleni Islands. If you’re more interested in history and wine, head for Stari Grad, the Stari Grad Plain and a tasting in Jelsa or Sveta Nedjelja. And if you’re staying the night, find a dark spot outside Jelsa and look up.

Hvar on Our Cruises

Hvar works especially well from a small ship, because the historic centre starts right at the waterfront. You can walk from the harbour to the Pjaca, the Arsenal and the old town lanes without any transport. Fortica means an uphill walk, while Stari Grad, the eastern beaches and the wineries need more time.

On our Adriatic Discovery cruise, the Hvar day starts early, with a visit to the Blue Cave on Biševo before breakfast, weather permitting. After a swim stop near the Pakleni Islands and lunch on board, you arrive in Hvar for a guided walk through town, and the evening is free. Harbour space in Hvar is limited, so on some sailings we moor in Stari Grad instead and arrange a transfer to Hvar Town.

Two tips from us: save the climb to Fortica for late afternoon, when the light is softer, and book dinner early in July and August. Browse our Croatia cruises for current routes and dates, or keep planning with our guides to Korčula, Brač and Split.

FAQ: Visiting Hvar, Croatia

Is Hvar worth visiting?

Yes. Hvar combines a walkable historic centre, the 1612 theatre and Fortica with beaches, wineries and easy boat trips to the Pakleni Islands. It’s busiest in July and August, but its appeal goes well beyond the summer nightlife.

Is Hvar just a party island?

No. Hvar Town has a lively nightlife in July and August, but the island also has the UNESCO-listed Stari Grad Plain, quiet towns like Stari Grad and Jelsa, and wine villages inland. Outside the peak weeks, even Hvar Town is much calmer.

Why is Hvar known as a sunny island?

Hvar gets more than 2,700 hours of sunshine a year, one of the highest figures in Croatia. That’s an average, though, not a promise of clear skies on every visit.

What is the Stari Grad Plain?

A farming landscape first laid out by Greek settlers in the 4th century BC. Its ancient plots and dry-stone walls are still in place, with grapes and olives still grown there, and UNESCO added it to the World Heritage List in 2008.

How do you get to Hvar?

Most visitors arrive by sea from Split. Catamarans go straight to Hvar Town, while car ferries run from Split to Stari Grad. A second car-ferry route links Drvenik on the mainland with Sućuraj at the eastern end of the island. Timetables vary by season.

What is Hvar known for besides sunshine?

Its Venetian-era old town, Fortica, the historic theatre in the Arsenal, the UNESCO-listed Stari Grad Plain, the Pakleni Islands, lavender, and wines from grapes such as Plavac Mali and Bogdanuša.

Can you visit Hvar on a small-ship cruise?

Yes. On our Adriatic Discovery cruise, the Hvar day includes the Blue Cave (weather permitting), a swim stop near the Pakleni Islands, a guided walk through Hvar Town and a free evening, with the ship staying overnight.

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